Every One of Them Eats Outside
All 10 of the Italian listings have outdoor seating, which changes what an Italian dinner is here. There is no hushed interior to retreat into: the room is a terrace or a stretch of cobblestone, the temperature is whatever the evening is doing, and the soundtrack is the street.
That works in the food’s favour more often than not. A wood oven is a furnace to sit beside in April and the reason the terrace is the good seat, and the pasta rooms are at their best after dark once the cobblestones have given back the day’s heat. It also means the weather is a real variable in green season, so the covered tables go first when it looks like rain.












