
Where to Stay: Centro, the Hills or the South Side
Centro, around the plaza, puts everything on foot: the beach, the taco stands, the shops and the Friday market. It is also the loudest part of town, with music most nights and more on weekends. First trip? Stay here, and read the first-timer’s guide.
North of the river is flatter and calmer, though the far end is a 15-minute walk from the plaza. Nanzal and Gringo Hill trade steep streets for views, so plan on a golf cart if anyone hates hills. The south side, toward Playa de los Muertos, is quieter. Wherever you land, ask about the lot next door: roosters, dogs and building work reach every corner.




